There can never be too many eateries having Hainanese chicken rice.
I remember first moving to Auckland 27 years ago - I was craving chicken rice - but when I asked a colleague, she pointed me to Tai Ping Asian Supermarket on Beach Road.
Chopped-up soya chicken on steamed rice with a side of bok choy is not chicken rice!
For the uninitiated, Hainanese chicken rice originated in the southern Chinese island of Hainan, but was introduced to South East Asia by early immigrants from the region.
Since then, countries like Singapore, Malaysia, and Thailand have adapted the dish to suit their own culinary traditions.
In the Singaporean Version a whole chicken is poached, and the fats along with the liquid from the poaching is used to flavour the rice along with ginger, garlic and pandan leaves.
Traditionally, the chicken is served cold and after poaching, the fowl is put through an “ice bath” process to prevent the meat from becoming overcooked.
The meat is then sliced and served with the flavoured rice along with hot ginger chilli and soya sauce.
The dish may look simple, but the preparation is incredibly complex.
Back in Singapore, Hainanese chicken rice…which we simply refer to as “chicken rice”, is a national delicacy.
In Auckland, the attempts by many eateries to put this on the menu have left me disappointed.
But in my quest for the best HCR, these are the ones I feel are deserving of a special mention.
NASI AYAM BUNGKUS BY AILIMTEH
I discovered Ailimteh’s chicken rice by chance. They trade from a food truck at markets and events, such as the Chow Luck Club Foodie Market out in St John’s on Saturdays and Botany Night Markets on Wednesdays.
Ellen Teh, the chef and business owner asked me if I wanted to try their nasi ayam bungkus just before last year’s Christmas market. Up until that point, I have only had their nasi lemak bungkus, which the business is famous for. Boy, was I glad I said yes.
Served wrapped in brown paper with two small containers of zesty chili and soya sauces to enhance the flavours, this is the ultimate HCR that is both comforting and nostalgic. They use tender, succulent chicken thigh meat and the rice is cooked fresh at the market in rich chicken broth.
AILIMTEH, Chow Luck Club Foodie Market, ParkCity 261 Morrin Road, St John’s Auckland. Saturdays 10am to 3pm.
KHAO MAN GAI BY SA-ON
One of the best chicken rice I’ve had at a restaurant in Auckland is not Malaysian, or even Singaporean. It’s Thai.
While Thailand’s khao man gai features similar poached chicken and aromatic flavoured rice, it is accompanied by coagulated chicken blood cubes.
But what sets it apart from the others is the dipping sauce, which incorporates fermented soybeans, vinegar, ginger, sugar, dark soy sauce and green and red chillies - resulting in way more complex flavours.
Sa-On’s Thai Hainanese chicken rice - served with a side bowl of broth - captures the essence of khao man gai, and makes a truly satisfying meal.
The downside is that it’s not on their everyday menu, and you’d need to check with the restaurant if they’ll be serving it on the day.
SA-ON, 401 Great North Road, Henderson. Ph: 022 4936988
HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE BY SELERA
Selera Malaysian Cafe is an old classic, renowned for its dedication to using quality ingredients. Miki Ong, the owner, still insists on boiling scampi heads for their prawn noodle broth despite rising costs.
Located on Khyber Pass Road in Newmarket, Selera offers a delectable version of Hainanese chicken rice and has been my go-to for the dish for many years. They use tender chicken thigh meat, which is my preferred part due to its juiciness as compared to the drier breast meat.
The rice is infused with the rich flavours of pandan leaves, garlic, and ginger, and the chicken is served topped with ginger, garlic, and scallion sauce - not something you traditionally find on Hainanese chicken rice, but the pairing works.
The downside - the dish just doesn’t seem complete when it’s not served with a side of chicken broth.
SELERA MALAYSIAN CAFE, 487 Khyber Pass Road, Newmarket. Ph: 09 5207977
HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE BY PETALING
Petaling Malaysian Restaurant has become a cherished dining spot for Malaysian dishes, and two of its most popular dishes are the char kway teow and Hainanese chicken rice.
I’ve seen the chefs at work at this restaurant headed by Jenny Cheng, who put a lot of heart into meticulously preparing the chicken to ensure the meat is succulent and the rice is flavourful and aromatic.
The good thing about Petaling is that it offers diners a choice of either chicken thigh or breast, and a complimentary bowl of chicken broth soup is also available on request. Also, diners can help themselves to the house-made chilli sauce to accompany their chicken rice.
PETALING MALAYSIAN RESTAURANT, 248A Dominion Road, Mount Eden, Ph: 09 9743993
HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE BY MAMA KOPITIAM
Previously known as MamaRich, the eatery run by a young couple Bretenn (from Kuala Lumpur) and his wife Jus (from Ipoh) took on its new name last year as Mama Kopitiam. Famous for its offerings of ling collar fish vermicelli and curry laksa, the restaurant also serves great Hainanese chicken rice.
The chicken is tender, juicy and perfectly poached, served on a bed of crunchy bean sprouts and served with flavoured rice that’s fragrant and aromatic. The tangy chili sauce also hits the mark adding to a burst of flavour when eaten with the chicken and rice.
Now, one thing you’d notice is the similarity between MamaRich’s chicken rice with Selera’s, including how they are served topped with ginger, garlic, and scallion sauce.
Well, that’s probably because the couple are related to Selera’s boss Miki, and I’ve been told they had learned the art of cooking their chicken rice from Miki.
And also just like Selera, the chicken rice here is not served with a side of chicken broth which can leave true chicken rice lovers with that “incomplete” feeling.
MAMA KOPITIAM, 205 Great South Road, Greenlane. Ph: 09 5201350
Overall, the Hainanese chicken rice scene here has improved by leaps and bounds in the past two decades and that’s a good thing!
I’ve been asked what’s the worst chicken rice I’ve had in Auckland - and I got to say that’s the one from Madam Woo in Takapuna some years back. This now-closed restaurant was helmed by famed Kiwi Masterchef judge Josh Emmett.
I remember ordering the dish with high expectations, but was shocked when it was served to my table looking more like chicken feed rather than chicken rice.
The rice and chicken were covered with cucumber strips, cut chilli, and coriander, in stark contrast to the usual presentation, leaving a bad taste even before I could even tuck into the dish.
I’m not usually happy when an eatery gets closed down, but I’m just glad Madam Woo is no longer in Auckland and serving its version of chicken rice that falls short on multiple levels.
